Day 4 Cover day.  We cover the floor with 2 layers of corrugated cardboard.  The same rules of NO tape on the floor still applies.
 
            Once the home is at the point of  ready to move into, we will return and apply several coats of Sealer Finish to revitalize the floor.   Once again, please keep in touch as far out as possible to ensure you are scheduled for this step at a convenient time.

   The owners decided to do a small border in the foyer so the pattern would be centered in that area rather than off-set as it would have flowed from the main pattern.

   There was also a Cased-Opening leading off of the Living Room to the Master Bedroom.  A 36” diagonal pattern was used in the Living Room and the pattern flow would have just made an offset “X” in the cased opening.  A cut-off line was scored at the start of the cased opening and three overlapped 24” diagonal tiles were centered in the area.

There was also an adjustment made with a cut-off line to re-center the diagonal pattern down the hallway.

   The main point here is to always be flexible and open to small changes in plans since you never really know how the pattern is going to flow across the space until the lines are marked.  Consider the information below:

Scoring Patterns
 
            Some people like a Tile look and others prefer a seamless finish.  We will give you the look you desire, but there are several things to consider:
 
1. We prefer to cut the slab 2-3 days after it is poured and before the framers set the walls.  Then we will return to stain and seal the slab when the project is "dried in" (framed with doors, windows and water tight, no insulation or sheet rocka minimum 30 days of drying should be observed).  After the project is dried in, the floors should be covered as described in Information on Mix, Finishing and Pre-Stain Care para 8.  There are advantages and disadvantages to scoring at this point.
 
a.                            Advantage There are no walls at this point so the pattern can be scored across the entire surface and the "grout lines" will continue under the walls once erected.
b.                            Disadvantage A starting point is determined and the entire slab is scored.  This means that each doorway most likely will not have a perfectly placed tile; the pattern will fall where it falls.
 
2. If scoring cant be done on the whole slab or if you want that perfect tile placement, the slab can be scored after the house is framed.  Again, there are advantages and disadvantages to scoring at this point.
 
a.                            Advantage Each room can have a perfectly placed/centered tile look.  Different rooms can have tiles on a square or on a 45 degree angle.  Different rooms can have unique sizes of tile (standard is 24" tile with smaller sizes costing more).
b.                            Disadvantage A border has to be marked off 12" from each wall.  This will allow a starting point for the centering of the pattern.  A border means the grout lines will not disappear under the walls because there is no way to saw-cut up to the studs without cutting into them (or your sheet rock). 
 
3. To insure proper scheduling and availability, please contact us at least 3 weeks in advance.  We work diligently to accommodate many schedules at the same time.  We operate on a First-Signed, First-Scheduled basis.  We ask that you communicate your project status to us as far in advance as possible.  We are committed to providing the finest floor possible and are sure you want the same.      
 
Visit Stained By Design's website for more information on Scored Concrete Floors

   However, there is one problem with transforming your dull Gray Concrete into an Acid Stained Floor.........Once you make something pretty; you notice when it is dirty.  Stained Concrete floors should be considered a Low Maintenance floor Not a No Maintenance floor.  The information below will give you the knowledge needed to keep your surface looking its best.
 
 
Interior Floor Care:
 
   Your Custom Interior Floor can last a lifetime if properly maintained.  Plastic glides, Felt Pads or Magic Movers should be affixed to heavy furnishings or those which will move frequently.  Use the same precautions you would use for a Hard Wood Floor.  A Door Mat at the outside (Hemp or Rope style) and inside entrance (one with a solid backing that can be shook off outside) of a home will pick up over 85% of the dirt that would otherwise be tracked inside. 

   One important thing to mention about your walk-off mat is how to choose one.  For the first month, an open-back mat such as a carpet remnant should be used while the sealer/finish cures.  Plastic-backed products should NOT be used for your mats.  An acrylic or plastic backed mat can cause discoloration under and around the mat.  This phenomenon is called Plasticizer Migration.  This is caused when a plasticizer in a floor mat or floor material transfers itself (migrates) into the floor finish or sealer.  A Plasticizer is an ingredient of a floor finish (or flooring/mat product) that makes it more flexible and less brittle. This is accomplished with an additive which reduces intermolecular forces in the polymers. Since the intermolecular forces are reduced, the molecules in the Plastic mat surface next to your floor will actually want to bond with the molecules in the sealer MORE than the sealer bonds to the concrete. Then when you pull up the mat, you may be tearing up part of your sealer.  If a solid backed mat is used, it should be a mat with a backing of 100% Rubber material.

Here is how to care for your stained concrete floor:
 
Daily dust mopping -  Daily dust mopping removes the fine dust and grit which can grind away floor finish. It will help prevent major floor finish deterioration caused by normal foot traffic.  The best results are obtained by using a Micro-Fiber Dust Mop.  The following procedures should be followed:
 
1.      Dust mop the floor in one continuous movement without lifting the mop off the floor. Overlap your stroke on each pass (you can also vacuum but without the brush turning).
 
2.      Clean the dust mop after each use by shaking it outdoors; clean it with a brush over a garbage can, or vacuuming it.  
 
3.      NEVER use a "Swiffer Wet-Jet" type of cleaning tool.  The liquid in these devices contain trace amounts of Solvent material.  The Solvent will not harm the sealer but will cause the wax to egg-shell.  Also, you should not use Ammonia, Bleach or Pine Sol.
 
 
Damp mopping - use cool water
 
            1.  Damp mopping with cool water and a neutral ph cleaner extends the floor
                 Finish life. It will not dull the finish and will enhance the gloss retention.
 
            2.  Follow the recommended dilution rates on label directions.
 
            3. The mop should be wrung out tightly so that it is just damp.  Do not allow the
                Cleaning solution to puddle.
 
            4.  NEVER use a "Swiffer" type of cleaning tool.  I know this is a repeat from above but I must state this again.  The liquid in these devices contain trace amounts of Solvent material.  The Solvent will not harm the sealer but will cause the wax to egg-shell or streak.  Also, no Ammonia, Bleach or Pine Sol.
 
 
Waxing - Wax is the sacrificial coating to protect the sealer and bear the brunt of the scuff and scratches.  No one wants to think about waxing a floor, but it is a necessary evil - like waxing your car.  Your floor should be finished with 4 coats of wax on top of the sealer for additional  protection.  When this is done, the wax coats bear the brunt of the traffic load and preserve the concrete and sealer.  It is much easier to apply a refresher coat of wax than it is to reseal a floor.   Use a Commercial Quality Floor Finish of at least 20% solids material as the final coatings.  Never use  Mop-n-Glo or similar wax products.  These quickie products do not have the durability to last for very long.
 
 1.      How often you need to re-wax depends on the abuse you, your children or pets put on the floor.  It varies by owner and may be anywhere from every 6 months to every year.
 
2.      Use a looped-end Rayon mop -- synthetics release material cotton absorbs.
 
3.      Pour a dinner-plate sized puddle on the floor and spread it evenly and thinly.  Spread the material across the surface and let it dry for 1 hour.  You are now ready for foot traffic again.
 
   The use of a Floor Mat on the Outside and Inside of entry doors will pick up about 85% of dirt that would enter a home.  The use of mats is especially good if you are living in a new housing development.
 
           
Troubleshooting:

 The following section covers the most common mistakes made in maintaining a stained floor and the steps to take to correct the problem:

Symptom	Probable Cause	Solution
Floor is Streaky	The floor was still dirty before mopping or the mop water was too dirty during use.	Allow floor to dry, dust mop or vacuum and use a clean mop and water.
Dusty Footprints at entrance(s)	Dirty or No Walk-Off mat.	Shake/Clean walk-off mat. Or, get one if you don’t have it.
Floor is Spotty (Milky White spots).	Too much mop water remained on the floor.	Your cleaning water shouldn’t puddle.  Wring out the mop so that it is just damp and doesn’t leave excess liquid on the floor.  Note:  The Spots will clear after the water has evaporated.
Floor is Sticky.	Too much PH neutral cleaner in mop water.	Re-Mop the floor with only clean cool water to remove excess cleaner.  A good cleaner ratio is 1 ounce of cleaner to 1 gallon of cool water.

NOTE:  You should rinse your mop after each cleaning and let it air dry.  After using your mop for wax, rinse and wring out the mop several times.  Then, fill the bucket with water, add a palm-full of hair conditioner to the mop water and let sit overnight.  Rinse and wring out the mop several times and let it air dry.  This will ensure you have a clean mop for the next time you mop.  Dust mops need to be cleaned and can also be washed and air dried.


Visit Stained By Design's website to see pictures of Acid Stained Concrete floors and to learn more about Acid Stained Floor Care.

   Acid Stains are not paints.  They are a coloring process involving a chemical reaction on a cementitious material.  Acid Stains are a mixture of Hydrochloric Acid, water, and inorganic salts.  The acid is not the ingredient that creates the color.  The acid opens the pores of the concrete (this is referred to as etch).  Once the pores are open, the metallic salts in the mixture react with the hydrated lime (calcium hydroxide) in the hardened concrete.  When this solution is placed on concrete it colors the concrete by chemically combining the metallic ions with the particles in the concrete to form oxides.  It is this reaction – at the ion level - that creates color.  The stain mixture needs to react with the concrete for 4 ~ 6 hours.  Many stain artists leave the stain on the slab overnight. 

   There are many manufactures of Acid Stain and most produce stain in 8 colors that are variations of three basic color groups: black, brown, and blue-green.  The basic 8 colors are:  Black, Brown, Umber, Red, Tan, Gold, Green and Blue.  Some stain manufactures may use adjectives such as Vintage or Antique to describe their color version.

   Acid Stain gives concrete a mottled, variegated, marble-like look.  An acid stained floor will not look like a paint swatch – it will look like multiple swatches in a basic color range.  Never expect Acid Stain to be uniform or have an even tone, you will get different reactions from slab to slab, and even on the same job you may see different coloration patterns. Variations of colors and mottling are to be expected and enjoyed.  It is the random mix of tones and shades that gives an acid stained floor its unique beauty.

Some factors that affect the outcome of the finished stain project include:

• Cement properties and mix design
• Admixtures 
• Type of aggregate 
• Concrete finishing methods
• Concrete age and moisture content when stain is applied
• Weather conditions when concrete is poured and stain is applied
• Efflorescence – a little is good

   In general, cements that produce larger amounts of calcium hydroxide during hydration will show more stain color, and higher cement contents produce more intense colors.  A smooth surface may require a stronger stain mixture while a “garage floor” finish will stain at a weaker concentration.  If they are near the surface, calcium-based aggregates, such as lime-stone, take stain readily and deepen the color of the concrete above them. Solid aggregates, such as gravel, don’t react with the stain.

   Acid stains, unlike paints, are not opaque - they are translucent.  Some areas will be darker than others, similar to marble, granite or other natural stone.  Along with the naturally occurring variegations and marbling - any blemishes and imperfections in your concrete simply add character and charm.  Even cracks can add to the look.

    However, each slab is different and there may be problem areas that need to be Faux Finished.  This is most often caused by things that may have already reacted with the concrete or things that were spilled / dropped on the concrete.  These may include Plumber’s Flux, Construction Adhesives, Paints and other such items.  When talking to your stain contractor, question them on what they do for these areas.  If their response is “You can’t control the stain”, “Acid does what it does” or “You get what you get”; get a second opinion.  A reliable stain contractor will know how to treat these areas and should not charge extra to do so.

 Click the highlighted link for additional information on How Concrete Acid Stain Works.

      It is important that the concrete be thoroughly finished with hand tools where needed around the plumbing, risers, floor outlets, or any other element which is not accessible by the machine.  Special care should be taken to blend in the areas at the exterior edges of the slab.  If the finish is smooth in the center and rough finished at the edges, there will be a noticeable difference of color and tone between these areas.

      Silicone chalks should NOT be used if at all possible.  The RED and yellow chalks are PERMANENT DYES.  RED Chalk should NOT be used for framing.  White or Blue chalks are OK.  Do NOT use silicone sprays to “Hold” the lines.  The sprays repel the stain and leave harsh, permanent scars on the floor.

      It is important that wood, sheet goods, sections of framing and the like not lay on the slab for extended periods of time.  They can transfer resins and tannins into the slab.  This will alter the moisture content in the slab which leaves a pattern in the finished floor.  Cardboard should be placed between the slab and the stacked material to minimize any unwanted transfers.

      The floor should be protected from the following:   Plumbers Glue, Foam Insulation, Bond Release Agents, Flux, Oils, Grease, Polyurethane, Paint, Markers (framers often write dimensions of doorways in marker on the slab.  Ask them to make that note on the wood framing the doorway), Grease Sticks, Spray Paints, Crayons, Muratic Acid, and other chemicals both before and after staining.  Also ask that locations of Electrical and other outlets be marked on the studs and not on the floor.

      The framers should brace the walls to the outside and not to the slab.  Door plates should be cut away immediately.

      The floors should be clean and the rooms empty, with absolutely nothing on the floors prior to the arrival of the stain crew.  The best time to stain the floors is when you are Blacked-In with a Roof on.  The slab is at it’s cleanest at this point in time.  After the Stain and Sealer, we cover the floor with 2 layers of corrugated cardboard to protect it from the Drywall Mud.  After the mud work is done, remove the top layer of cardboard and the remaining layer will protect the floor from the  Paint process.

      At the “Pre-Trim” stage, a refresher coat of sealer will bring the floors back to life.

      It is extremely important that you do not tape the floor!  When covering the floor, overlap sheets of cardboard  (Roofing paper is a great covering item too).  Tape the first sheet to the wall then overlap the second sheet to the first and tape it to the paper.  DO NOT TAPE TO THE FLOOR.  Duct Tape, Masking Tape, Packaging Tape, Strap Tape, Blue Tape, Green Tape, Stucco Tape and Electrical Tape – there are NO exceptions.  The tape alters the natural curing process and transfers chemicals to and from the slab.  If tape is placed on the sealer, it will pull the sealer off of the floor.  This is called Plasticizer Migration and it WILL SHOW in the finished product. 

      When covering the floor, do not cover the floor with plastic at any time!  It prevents the slab from breathing which inhibits proper curing.  It can result in efflorescence.

      To learn more about Slab Preparation for Stained Concrete, Visit Stained By Design's website